Our time sailing from Lyon to Arles on the AmaKristina with AmaWaterways

A Southern France 7 Night River Cruise And How You Do Your Own Thing

As a travel agent, I often get the chance to explore beautiful destinations and try exceptional travel experiences. Recently, my husband Simeon and I embarked on a 7-night river cruise through the Rhône Valley with AmaWaterways. This journey, called “Colours of Provence,” was a great blend of luxury, culture, and scenery that I’d love to share with you.

I choose this cruise to be able to highlight how river cruising can be whatever type of holiday you want it to be.  Use the ship as a base, truly a moving hotel and create your own cruise itinerary through the region you are travelling in. 

July in this region of France is full of exceptional world class entertainment and festivals and a real chance to enjoy some good weather, culture and great food and wine.  What’s not to love!  You could come back each year and do something different and never, ever get bored.

Our Journey Begins

We started with a flight from the UK to Paris, followed by a swift and comfortable ride on the TGV train to Lyon.  We then took a tram for a few Euros from the station to where the ship was docked, in the heart of the university area.  For us it was easier than getting a transfer with AmaWaterways as we wanted to fly from our regional airport.  

Who exactly are AmaWaterways?

AmaWaterways is a luxury river cruise line known for its exceptional service, luxurious accommodations, and immersive itineraries. With a fleet of modern ships, they offer voyages that explore some of the world’s most scenic waterways.

Introducing the AmaKristina

Our home for the week was the beautiful AmaKristina, a ship that perfectly embodies the sophistication and comfort AmaWaterways is known for. The AmaKristina is designed to provide an intimate and luxurious experience, accommodating up to 156 passengers. It features spacious staterooms, multiple dining venues, a heated pool with a swim-up bar, a fitness room, and a fleet of complimentary bicycles for exploring the ports.

Our Category E Cabin

We stayed in a Category E cabin on the lower deck, which, despite being the cheapest option, offered all the comfort and amenities we needed. The cabin was elegantly appointed with a incredibly comfortable bed, a modern bathroom with big bottled toiletries, ample storage space, and an entertainment system. We appreciated the thoughtful details, such as the high-quality linens and bathrobes and daily housekeeping service, which added to the overall luxury feel of our stay.

Exploring the Rhône Valley

Immersing Ourselves in the Culinary Capital of France – Lyon & choosing a small group tour

We arrived in time for dinner on the first day.  But straight after we couldn’t wait to get out to discover Lyon on a warm summer evening and get our bearings.  Lyon is a city celebrated for its rich history and world-renowned gastronomic heritage. Often referred to as the culinary capital of France, Lyon boasts an impressive array of restaurants, from charming bistros to Michelin-starred establishments, making it a paradise for food lovers like us.

Over 20 years ago we had set off on a long weekend with a hard copy of the Michelin Guide Rouge which was in French only in those days and ate our way around the city.  We discovered an old bar (or perhaps it wasn’t) and sat instead at one of the floating bars (converted barges) that are now scattered along the river and listened to the chatter of students. It was good to be back.

Day 2: Exploring Lyon’s Old Town

Despite a slight delay returning from a delightful coffee break in the city, we managed to join a late riser tour, which turned out to be a fortunate mishap. With only a small group, our walking tour of Lyon’s old town felt more intimate and personalised. Our knowledgeable guide led us through the cobblestone streets, sharing fascinating stories and historical insights.  (By comparison, we came across another operator where there were 50 people trailing after the one guide).

Discovering the Traboules

One of the highlights of the tour was learning about the traboules, unique to Lyon. These hidden passageways, dating back to the Renaissance, were originally built to provide direct access to the Saône River for the city’s silk weavers. Today, the traboules are a fascinating glimpse into Lyon’s past. As we wandered through these secret corridors, our guide explained how they played a crucial role during World War II, allowing members of the French Resistance to move covertly through the city.

The Silk Weaving Heritage

Lyon’s history is deeply intertwined with the silk industry. In the 16th century, the city became a major center for silk production, attracting skilled weavers and artisans. Our guide shared stories of the silk workers, known as canuts, and their significant contributions to Lyon’s economy and cultural heritage. We even had the chance to visit a workshop where traditional silk weaving techniques are still practiced today, offering a glimpse into the meticulous craftsmanship that defined Lyon’s textile industry.

Nicknames and “Monsieur Concrete”

Lyonnaise are known for their penchant for giving nicknames to everything in their city, a charming tradition that adds to the city’s unique character. Our guide humorously explained how the former mayor, Louis Pradel, who significantly modernized the city’s infrastructure, earned the nickname “Monsieur Concrete.” Pradel oversaw the construction of numerous skyscrapers and buildings for the 1968 Winter Olympics. However, despite his ambitious projects, the Lyonnaise are not particularly fond of him, feeling that his concrete structures detracted from the historic beauty of the city. This playful spirit of the Lyonnaise reflects their deep connection to their city’s history and the pride they take in its ongoing evolution.

We also used the free afternoon to go up to Basilica of Notre Dame of Fourvière via the funicular railway

A Culinary Extravaganza at Paul Bocuse’s Restaurant

Our day in Lyon culminated in an extraordinary dining experience at the restaurant of the legendary chef Paul Bocuse, considered the most famous restaurant in France. Although not part of the cruise itinerary, we took advantage of our overnight mooring in Lyon to make a reservation well in advance.

Paul Bocuse was a seminal figure in French cuisine, known for his innovative approach and dedication to quality. His restaurant, L’Auberge du Pont de Collonges, has held three Michelin stars for over fifty years, a testament to its exceptional culinary standards. Bocuse was a pioneer of nouvelle cuisine, a style that emphasizes lighter, more delicate dishes and impeccable presentation.

The Signature Dish: Chicken in a Pig’s Bladder

One of the highlights of our meal was the world-famous “Volaille de Bresse en Vessie,” or chicken cooked in a pig’s bladder. This dish was created by Bocuse for then-French President Valéry Giscard d’Estaing. The chicken, a prized Bresse variety, is stuffed with black truffles and foie gras, then cooked in a pig’s bladder to seal in the flavours and ensure it remains succulent. The result is a dish of extraordinary taste and texture, perfectly showcasing Bocuse’s culinary genius.  Safe to say we left the restaurant felling like we may never need to eat again!

Day 3: Lyon and on to Vienne

On Saturday morning, we still had time to explore the vibrant outdoor market on the banks of the River Rhône in the heart of Lyon. The market was bursting with fresh, local produce, and we felt like true locals as we strolled through the stalls, purchasing cherries and nectarines. This leisurely activity was our alternative to the 9 a.m. Beaujolais wine tasting, which we decided to skip. I’m not a Beaujolais enthusiast, and the thought of it that early in the morning didn’t appeal to me when the chance to shop like a local and enjoy a coffee was there for the taking.

After a relaxing lunch on the AmaKristina, we set sail for Vienne under a bright, sunny sky.

Do Your Own Thing: The Vienne Jazz Festival

Arriving in Vienne, we were looking forward to our pre-booked night out at the internationally famous Jazz Festival. This renowned festival has been celebrating jazz music since its inception in 1981 and runs for two weeks each summer, attracting jazz enthusiasts from around the world.

I had pre-purchased tickets for the main event on Saturday night at the Théâtre Antique, an ancient Roman theatre that provides a stunning backdrop for performances. Although it rained for the only time during our entire trip, the weather did not dampen our spirits. We were treated to a phenomenal performance by Hiromi, a Japanese jazz composer and pianist known for her incredible virtuosity and electrifying stage presence. Hiromi, who also performed at the Tokyo Olympics, captivated the audience with her dynamic and soulful music.

Bring Flexibility to Curate Your Own River Cruise

Our experience in Vienne highlighted the flexibility and diverse experiences that a river cruise can offer. The AmaKristina remained moored overnight in Vienne, allowing us the freedom to enjoy the festival well into the night. While others on the ship were resting, we were sipping cidre and soaking in some of the best jazz performances in the world.

It is this perfect blend of local culture, leisurely exploration, and world-class entertainment that makes a river cruise an unforgettable adventure. Whether you’re a jazz aficionado or simply looking for a unique travel experience, this river cruise offers the flexibility and variety to make the holiday what you want it to be.  France, in general really lends itself to doing your own thing by having a floating hotel travelling with you so you can take advantage of the food and wine and entertainment off the ship itself.

Day 4: A Sunny Sunday on the Rhône: Cycling and Exploring Vienne and Tournon

Our Sunday morning began in the charming town of Vienne. With the sun shining brightly, we decided to take advantage of the bicycles provided by the AmaKristina and embark on a cycling adventure along the ViaRhôna bike path.

Cycling the ViaRhôna

The ViaRhôna is a remarkable bike route that runs from Lake Geneva in Switzerland to the Mediterranean Sea in France, covering a distance of approximately 815 kilometers (506 miles). This scenic path offers a perfect blend of nature, history, and culture, making it an ideal activity for travelers of all ages and fitness levels.

The ship ran a cycling excursion with Ernie the Wellness host and consisted of both leisurely riders and more energetic cyclists who rode over 15 kilometres before returning to the ship.

Sim and I on the other hand enjoyed a later start and a more relaxed pace and simply followed the river.  The sunny weather made the ride even more enjoyable, and we took a pleasant break at a local boulangerie on the Tain-l’Hermitage side of the river. The boulangerie was bustling with locals, adding an authentic touch to our Sunday morning in France.

Sailing to Tournon

After our bike ride, we sailed on to Tournon. This picturesque town, with its medieval charm, wine connections and beautiful scenery, it a great place to stop on the Rhône River.

Evening in Tournon: Election Night

Following a delicious dinner on the ship, we went ashore to soak up the local atmosphere. It was an interesting evening, as the second round of the French parliamentary elections had just taken place. Exit polls indicated that the far-right party, National Rally (Rassemblement National), had come in third. There was a palpable sense of relief among the locals, reflecting the political climate and the significance of the election results.

Day 5: Getting Serious About Red Wine

One of the highlights of our Rhône River cruise through this area of the appellation of Saint Joseph and Tain L’hermitage was an excursion we simply couldn’t miss: a red wine and chocolate tasting. This delightful experience quickly became one of our favourites, showcasing the perfect harmony between fine wine and gourmet chocolate.

The Setting: Chateaux de Tournon

Just a short walk from the ship, we arrived at the picturesque Chateaux de Tournon. This historic castle, perched above the town, provided a stunning backdrop for our tasting session.

We were greeted by a knowledgeable local sommelier who introduced us to the exceptional wines of the Saint Joseph appellation. His passion and expertise were evident as he shared insights into the region’s winemaking traditions and the unique characteristics of each vintage.  A talented local chef and chocolatier had meticulously paired each Saint Joseph wine with a complementary chocolate, enhancing the flavours of both and discovered how the wine brought out the nuanced tastes of the chocolate and vice versa. Each bite of chocolate offered a new and exciting flavour profile, influenced by the particular wine of particular vintage we were sipping.  The experience highlighted how thoughtfully paired food and drink can elevate each other to new heights.

The afternoon was spent cruising along the Rhone and enjoying the sunbeds and the pool on the sundeck.  After dinner we walked around Viviers until we found a small local bar to sit and drink Ricard at with some of the other guests we had started to talk to during the cruise.

Day 6: Learning More About Avignon

Another beautiful sunny day and we decided that out of the three tours on offer we would try the “Tastes of Avignon” as we hadn’t done the market tour in Lyon.  It was a good way to get our bearings again with a friendly and knowledgeable local guide but the tour itself was a little underwhelming.  Les Halles d’Avignon is a formidable indoor, air-conditioned market hall with everything from beautiful fruits de mare to wine, cheese, fruit, meat, vegetables, you name it, to home made tapenade is worth a longer tour on its own.  The centre of Avignon itself was full of students promoting the thousands of theatre shows that area taking place as part of the Avignon festival, which happens every July.

Having looked at the itinerary we knew we had enough time to get lunch off the ship (a octopus salad and a glass of local rose ) before the afternoon’s outing to the Pont du Gard and the chance for an actual swim in an actual river, the river Gardon.  This is a very easy trip to do on your own via an Uber and it would have given more time for the swim – I was the only one who took advantage of the beautiful clear water.  Others may have done if we had had longer.

We couldn’t have timed our trip better as it coincided with the Euro 2024 finals and whilst we were in Avignon, France were playing Spain at 9pm and the place was heaving.  The squares were full with expectant fans and we were very happy to join them.  Unfortunately, though France scored early, Spain then scored twice in quick succession and everywhere went quiet.  Not the result that anyone wanted, but a great experience to join the national angst in the warm Provencial evening.

Day 7: Independence in Arles, plus Les Baux de Provence

We decided to wander around Arles on our own for our last full day.  Stopping at the theatre antique to note another festival that occurs at this time of year – music.  The streets are full of art and musicians and we stopped to look at both whilst grabbing a coffee.  With more time we would have visited more art museums, but did make it to the Van Gogh foundation (which we would have seen if we had been on the organised walking tour, by the way).  The world famous “Starry Night 1” is in residence at the moment and is simply breath taking.  The story of Van Gogh’s desire to achieve this painting “in the dark” with no sketch but straight onto canvas under dim light was incredible.

Back to the ship for a light lunch of a tuna melt and we were ready to head out on the Ama excursion to the second most visited place in France, Les Baux de Provence and one of the main reasons I booked this tour “Carriers de Lumieres” a unique presentation of art, sound and history projected onto the walls of a former limestone quarry, set to music.  A idea that began in the 1970s, the theme changes each year and it was every bit as good as I had been led to believe.  History came to life and the images made your feel you were walking through an ancient bazaar as well as in the tombs in Egypt.  You simply have to go!

The village of Les Baux de Provence is as pretty as you would expect and the day we went wasn’t that busy.

A Final Dinner in Arles Itself

For dinner on our last night in France, I consulted the Michelin Guide app – quite a difference from our trip with the old hardbacked edition 20 years ago.  I picked “Chardon” with its recommendation and reasonable price and outdoor terrace and booked the last slot.  35 euros for 4 courses of whatever was the chefs creation that night from a talented chef in residence from New York. A great bottle of local Rose and again feeling like a local.  So good was it, we added the pudding and a digestive and still had change from 130 euros. We were then pointed in the direction of where we could watch the football (England vs The Netherlands in the Euros) and found a delightful square at the end of the street with bars and restaurants all with televisions and gently chatting mixed crowds including a few Brits to enjoy a beer with.  We even got a few cheers off the locals when England won!

We walked back to the ship through the picturesque and lightly lit streets full of quaint provincial houses and dreamed what it might be like if this was your route home each evening.

Conclusion

Our “Colours of Provence” river cruise with AmaWaterways was an extraordinary experience that I wholeheartedly recommend. Whether you’re a seasoned traveller or planning your first river cruise, AmaWaterways ensures a journey filled with luxury, discovery, and unforgettable memories. If you’re interested in exploring the Rhône Valley or any other stunning destinations with AmaWaterways, feel free to reach out for more details and personalised travel planning.

Embark on your own adventure and discover the beauty and charm of river cruising with AmaWaterways. You won’t be disappointed!